David Hewson is the bestselling author of twenty two books published in more than twenty languages. His popular Costa contemporary crime series is now in development for a series of TV movies in Rome

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Friday
May072010

The red onions of Tropea

It’s tempting to think that Italian food is universal. Pizza, pasta everywhere. This is all a great myth. In truth there’s no such thing as Italian food. Just lots of very regional dishes many of which never find their way out into the outside world.

Here’s one speciality I doubt you’ll ever heard of. It’s nothing more than an onion, though if you come from the Calabrian town of Tropea an onion is no merevegetable.



Tropea is a beautiful seaside town on the western coast of Calabria, midway between Lamezia Terme and Reggio. Here’s a picture I took a while back to give you an idea. 2595129361_1100184a3e_b

Pretty place, eh?

But what Tropea is most famous for in Italy is an onion. A red onion usually eaten raw. Buy red onions in Italy and if they say Tropea on them they cost more and, usually, taste better.

They’re sweet and special and even appeal to people who don’t like onions at all. If you go to Tropea you’ll see everywhere on menus ‘Insalata Tropeana’. This is little more than local tomatoes and onions in good olive oil and vinegar. When good it’s astonishing. Honest.

Last year I brought back some onion seeds from Tropea and tried to grow them back in the UK. Same plant. Same seeds. Didn’t work at all.

The last time we were in Calabria, some way south, we caught a train to Tropea. Should have been an hour or so each way. The trains on the way back suddenly stopped working so we had to faff around in town and then spend 100 euros on a cab.

While there I reminded myself of the Tropea onion fetish. You can buy red onion jam, sauce,  even red onion ice cream. They love the things. And yes, they are just incredible.

So if you find yourself in Italy and get offered Tropea onions my advice is: take them. I’m not a huge raw onion fan myself. But these really are something special.

Reader Comments (4)

Beautiufl place!!!

"Last year I brought back some onion seeds from Tropea and tried to grow them back in the UK. Same plant. Same seeds. Didn’t work at all."

It is the onion AND the soil. Same thing happens with Vidalia Onions.

Vidalia, GA ( USA) is famous for their sweet onions. First time I cooked with them they turned the beef sweet. Lots of sugar in them. Buy them even as sets and grow them any where but in about a two county area of south GA, poof. Nothing.

We spent last weekend in north GA. What did our friends ask us to bring them. Yep, Vidalia onions.

May 7, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterCurtis

Once again a great picture. Makes me want to go there myself! And if so, I'll try the onions.

May 7, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterPetra Nieuwpoort

A great picture of a really cool place!

My first thought was of Vidalias, too, Curtis. (pronunciation: "Vy-DALE-yuh")

May 16, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJonathan Hayes

And, spoken with out moving ones mouth.

May 16, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterCurtis

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